The application properties of the application mixture, especially the release and odor of ammonia can be reduced clearly with the oxidizing agents as contemplated herein.
A further object of the present application relates to a composition for changing the color of keratinic fibers, which aforementioned composition can be produced from two compositions, which are separated from one another, by mixing these two compositions, wherein one of the two compositions is an oxidative composition of the first subject matter of the application and the second composition is a soap-gel-based hair brightening and/or hair dyeing preparation, which contains ammonium hydroxide as alkalizing agent and optionally an oxidation dye precursor and has a pH ranging from about 8 to about 11.5, measured at 20° C., and, furthermore preferably, contains from about 25-about 85% by weight of water, furthermore from about 5-about 20% by weight and preferably from about 8-about 16% by weight of at least one salt of a C12-C22 fatty acid, preferably a salt of oleic acid, optionally from about 0.1-about 3% by weight of an anionic surfactant, selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule, from about 2-about 20% by weight and preferably from about 3-about 16% by weight of at least one polyethylene glycol ether of a linear, saturated or unsaturated C10-C18 alkanols with 1-5 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, a total of from about 0-about 1% by weight of at least one oil, preferably at least one organic solvent selected from monohydric to tetrahydric C2-C6 alcohols, in a total amount of from about 0.1-about 35% by weight and optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor, wherein all quantitative data is related to the weight of the composition (A).
A further subject matter of the present application relates to a kit for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, comprising a soap gel-based, optionally a dye-containing, ammonia-containing, alkalizing preparation and an aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparation, wherein the hydrogen peroxide preparation is optimized in that the ready-to-use mixture of alkalizing gel and hydrogen peroxide preparation represents a viscous cream or paste with the viscosity ranging from about 2000 to about 5000 mPas (for example, measured at 20° C. with a Haake-viscosimeter Type MV2 at a speed of 8 RPM), which can be applied well on the fibers, which are to be brightened and/or dyed and, during the application time of from about 5 to about 60 minutes, have a reduced release of ammonia.
A further subject matter of the present application relates to a process for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, wherein the ready-to-use bleaching and/or coloring agent is prepared by mixing the components of the abovementioned kit immediately before the application, subsequently applying it to the fibers, in particular, to the hair and, after an exposure time of from about 5 to about 60 minutes, rinsing it off once again.
The present disclosure relates to the oxidative color change of keratinic fibers, especially of hair. Since melanin dye of the fibers is destroyed to a certain extent during the treatment of keratinic fibers, especially hair, with oxidizing agents, in particular with hydrogen peroxide, the fibers/hair inevitably is brightened, that is, the color thereof is changed even in the absence of a dye. Therefore, for the purpose of the present application, the term “color change” encompasses both the brightening and the coloring with one or more dyes.
Someone of ordinary skill in the art knows various methods for changing the color of human hair. In general, for dyeing human hair, either substantive dyes or oxidation dyes are used, which are formed by the oxidative coupling of one or more developer components with one another or with one or more coupler components. Coupler and developer components are also referred to as oxidation dye precursors. The dyeings, achieved with oxidation dyes, usually are referred to as permanent or semi-permanent dyeings.
These compositions generally contain hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent. Since hydrogen peroxide is not sufficiently stable in the alkaline pH range, oxidative dyes usually are composed of two components, which are mixed with one another immediately before use. The one component contains hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution or emulsion, this composition having an acidic pH value ranging from about 2.5 to about 5.5 to stabilize the hydrogen peroxide. The second component contains one or more alkalizing agents in such an amount, that the application mixture of the two components has a pH ranging from about 8 to about 11. If the alkalization preparation contains no dye or only a small amount of dye, the latter is used for laminating unwanted color shades, which may arise during the oxidation of melanin, since this is a whitening agent or bleaching agent. However, the alkalizing preparation may also contain oxidation dye precursors and/or substantive dyes; the resulting application mixture then serves as a dye. There are also coloring kits and dyeing processes, in which the application mixture of the two components has a pH ranging from about 6 to about 7.9; however, the color results of these so-called “acidic” dyeings frequently do not reach the good results obtained with alkaline application mixtures.
Especially in the North American market, ammonia-containing alkalizing preparations, which are present as a soap-based gel and especially larger amounts of soaps, that is, salts of fatty acids, and possibly other surfactants, preferably are used for oxidatively changing hair color; however, for example, they contain hardly any or only a few fatty alcohols. Compounds of this kind have a very strong smell of ammonia when compared to fatty alcohol-containing blonding or dyeing creams when applied to the hair.
Furthermore, the alkalizing preparations contain ammonia as alkalizing agent and optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor and has a pH ranging from about 8 to about 11.5, measured at 20° C.
Furthermore, preferably alkalizing preparations are used, which contain from about 25-about 85% by weight of water, furthermore from about 5-about 20% by weight and preferably from about 8-about 16% by weight of at least one salt of a C12-C22 fatty acid, preferably a salt of oleic acid, optionally from about 0.1-about 3% by weight of an anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with from about 10 to about 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule, from about 2-about 20% and preferably from about 3-about 16% by weight of at least one polyethylene glycol ether of linear, saturated or unsaturated C10-C18 alkanols with 1-5 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, a total of from about 0-about 1% by weight of at least one oil, preferably at least one organic solvent, selected from monohydric to tetrahydric C2-C6 alcohols, especially preferably in a total amount of from about 0.1-about 35% by weight and optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor, wherein all quantitative data is related to the weight of the composition (A).
Usually, for the oxidative change in hair color, the alkalizing preparation is mixed with an aqueous oxidizing agent preparation, for example, in a re-closable bottle or a shaker beaker, and the therefrom resulting application mixture is applied on the hair to be treated, where it remains for an exposure time of from about 5 to about 60 minutes before it is rinsed off once again.
In the prior art, various solvent formulations are already known in order to reduce the odor of ammonia of a hair treatment composition. For example, instead of ammonia, an alkanolamides, such as monoethanolamine, which is highly volatile, may be used and smells less strongly than ammonia. However, it has turned out that the ability of keratin fibers to absorb dyes is best when ammonia is used. If the same color result is to be achieved with monoethanolamine, more hydrogen peroxide must be used or the application mixture must be left to act for a longer time on the keratin fibers. In the end, the use of monoethanolamine leads to greater damage to the keratin fibers than does the use of ammonia.
A different possibility for reducing the odor of the application mixture is to mask the smell of ammonia by using larger amounts of perfume. However, because of the piercing odor of ammonia, this is difficult to achieve.